Un día de aventuras entre El Bolsón y Trevelin

Es la época ideal para atravesar toda la Comarca Andina del Paralelo 42° y llegar hasta Esquel y Trevelin a través del Parque Nacional Los Alerces, un territorio pleno de belleza natural, donde la música la aportan el trinar de los pájaros y el rumor del agua de los arroyos.

Todo comienza temprano en El Bolsón, la ciudad ideal para hacer base por su infraestructura de servicios, tomando hacia el sur por la ruta nacional 40. Pasando Las Golondrinas, el valle de El Hoyo aparece en toda su inmensidad, con sus chacras arboladas y el pueblito al centro, dispuesto a mostrar la calidez de su gente y su potencial como capital nacional de la fruta fina. A 3.5 km hacia El Desemboque está el laberinto natural Patagonia (el más grande de Sudamérica), donde el desafío es sortear los intrincados y atrapantes caminitos compuestos por 2.100 cipreses de la variedad arizónica y macro carpa.

Pocos kilómetros más adelante, desde lo alto, el valle de Epuyén invita a descender hasta el lago, con su encantadora bahía de Puerto Bonito, frente al cerro Pirque, donde las fotos se multiplicarán porque el entorno es “simplemente paradisíaco” (desde la ruta son 7 km).En El Retamo hay que tomar la ruta 71 hacia Cholila (totalmente pavimentada). Unos 25 km distan hasta la cabaña de Butch Cassidy y su banda de pistoleros norteamericanos, quienes vivieron allí a principios del siglo XX y fue su guarida luego de asaltar bancos por medio país.

Allí seguramente se hará la hora del almuerzo y Cholila siempre es promesa de buen asado. Los lugareños hacen gala de ofrecer “la mejor carne del mundo” por la calidad de sus animales y las pasturas de sus valles. En el centro del pueblo hay un par de parrillas siempre dispuestas a demostrarlo.Es tiempo de retomar el paseo hacia la Villa Lago Rivadavia (el camino comienza a ser de tierra, está en buen estado), con su postal de lodges a orillas del río Carileufu y sus praderas llenas de vacas y caballos pastando que recuerdan el viejo farwest de la serie “Bonanza”.

Al llegar al Parque Nacional Los Alerces (Patrimonio Mundial Natural de la Unesco), el viajero “predispone todos sus sentidos para vivir un paisaje único de nuestro sur, donde el lago Rivadavia muestra todo su esplendor de azul profundo en medio de cañadones cordilleranos cubiertos por la selva valdiviana que se extienden hasta el límite con Chile”.A poco de andar, el camino se introduce en un bosque de lengas, propio de un cuento de elfos y duendes. Por allí nomás, un sendero de arenas volcánicas lleva hasta un mirador que permite observar “uno de los rincones andinos más encantadores de nuestra Patagonia”, con toda la cuenca a sus pies, en una sucesión de ríos y espejos lacustres que guardará por siempre en su memoria.

Pronto aparece el lago Verde y la pasarela que marca el comienzo del río Arrayanes, en su confluencia con el río Menéndez. Aquí hay que tomarse el tiempo de caminar una media hora hasta el lago Menéndez, por un sendero de alerces, arrayanes, enormes coihues, cipreses y radales, antes de arribar finalmente a Puerto Chucao, desde donde parten las excursiones embarcadas hasta el Alerzal Milenario y al glaciar Torrecillas.Allí aparece el alerce abuelo, que “resume la riqueza de este ambiente natural tan singular e impactante, con la altura del obelisco porteño y la edad del partenón griego” (tiene unos 2.620 años, mide 60 metros y más de dos metros de diámetro).

“Los Alerces es un parque nacional por excelencia. La baja densidad poblacional lo hace un sitio fabuloso e insospechado para recorrerlo en compañía del canto de aves, el murmullo de las aguas, la resonancia de sus cascadas, el silbido del viento en los follajes”, pondera el turista cordobés José Pedernera. Otra propuesta en este sector del parque es llegar hasta la seccional del guardaparque sobre el río Arrayanes, que une los lagos Verde y Futalaufquen. La vista aquí es realmente asombrosa, con los arrayanes de color canela metidos en la profundidad turquesa y transparente, que deja ver las truchas al alcance de la mano.

Ahora es tiempo de contemplar toda la belleza del lago Futalaufquen, pasando por lugares como la playa del Francés, punta Matos y arroyo Centinela, para arribar a la Villa Futalaufquen y Puerto Limonao. En este sector están las pinturas rupestres de 5.000 años de antigüedad, con dos aleros donde vivieron antiguas tribus tehuelches. A pocos metros, se puede conocer la intendencia del PNLA -con su particular arquitectura-, más la iglesia, la escuela y las hosterías.

La tarde va cayendo y es hora de llegar hasta Trevelin para tomar su famoso té galés, una tradición traída por los colonos en 1885 y que hoy constituye una de las principales atracciones de la zona. En el centro del pueblo también hay un museo, en el edificio del centenario Molino Andes, que encierra en sus paredes la rica historia de los pioneros galeses.

Fuente:https://www.diariojornada.com.ar/228716/sociedad/un_dia_de_aventuras_entre_el_bolson_y_trevelin/

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